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The Wines

50% Grenache blanc (mid-1960s), 30% Roussanne (mid-1990s), 20% Viognier (mid-1990s) from sandy, galet stone covered soils at Lirac, 4-12 hr maceration, 90% steel vat fermented at 16°C, 10% finishes fermentation in oak cask, 90% vat, 10% oak cask raised 4-5 months, malo blocked, organic wine, 12-21,000 b

2018

yellow colour; there’s sun strength in the bouquet, notes of glazed fruits, lemon tart, with grape essence, nectarine. It has local style, is a genuine opening. The palate is well juiced, vibrant, has a swish in its delivery, and rocks on well to the finish. Its inner strength requires la table, and it can pair well with sauced dishes, Escoffier and friends. This is solid Lirac blanc from the warm lands, a true example, close to STGT. Decanting advised. 14°. 2028-29 May 2019

2017

pale, rather cloudy yellow robe. The bouquet is broad, well-insulated with a good couch of white fruits that are notably ripe in style, peach, white plum with a touch of “high” in it. There are grapey, floral notes and a hint of reduction, so decanting possible, since the palate is also a little on reduction. It has a nicely fat core, ample heart, before a late tangy stretch, peach stone style. This is well filled in the mid-palate, bears squelchy white fruits, nectarine, pear. The length is good – it’s true to the finish on its orderly richness that is well put together. This is table wine, a bit low acidity, but genuine. 14°. 21,000 b. To 2022 Sept 2018

2016 ()

very pale, attractive robe. Pear with light spice comes nicely forward on the nose, some white plum, greengage with that. It’s got a saline clarity that enhances its appeal, holds a latent nuttiness. The palate is also zesty, combines white fruits and white flowers, the fruit pear, apricot, with firm lime moments. It grips tightly on the finish. It’s a low temperature fermentation wine, is fresh, a little mechanical, but has some local body. A line of firm sinew runs through it. It’s up for pork, halibut, haddock. 14°. 2021-22 Aug 2017

2015 ()

steady yellow robe, legs visible. Roasted nuts, peach and box plant show on the nose, a note of quince and its direct aroma. The palate leaves a salty impression, bears cool fruit, ends well tucked in. I like its salty length. This has the potential to soften and amplify further. I would wait until autumn 2016. 13.5°. 2020-21  Feb 2016 

2012 ()

mild yellow colour. Exotic fruits feature in a rather chunky aroma that is broad and more on weight than finesse. At first it shows box hedge, almost a Sauvignon touch, but also banana. The palate fruit is ripe, destined for sauced dishes, seems more constructed than laissez-faire in its approach. The flavour starts on apricot, moves into greengage. Drink with soft cheeses, soup au pistou. The finish is rather sticky, and it is monolithic over varied. 13.5°. To 2016  May 2013

2011

yellow colour with green tints, has a fat aspect. The nose is rich and broad, shows layered amounts of white stone fruit, along with herbs, nut, celery even – the bouquet is tight-knit but deep. The palate gives some reduction on the start, spreads a concerted fat across it, with richness and texture making it smooth. There is a slight, agreeable tightening at the end, an attractive finish. It shows tiny little bubbles of acidity, and beckons fine cuisine, steamed fish, Asiatic dishes. Can develop, too. 13.5°, 2.5 gm of residual sugar. To 2016 April 2012

2010 ()

pear-grapefruit aroma, light butter also – a stylish, rather floral bouquet, honeysuckle scent. The palate runs from well from the nose, offers good gras which is mildly done on the finish. Good balance, a nice and orderly wine, suited to the aperitif. Honey aftertaste, nice and clear. 13.5°. 2015-16. April 2011

2008

(vat) pale robe; mild pear aroma, baked apple also. Soft debut to the palate, with a little acidity to move it along later. This is harmonious and elegant in the making. Sound length. To 2012 March 2009

2007 ()

flinty yellow; nutty, nougat, buzzy nose, with a layer of southern richness. Pretty, expressive fruit on the palate – it comes tinged with baked white fruits, has local feel. “It is moving from citrus and apricot aromas to honey, lime and linden ones as it ages,” Pascal Lafond. Good as aperitif, or with sauced fish. Bottled April 2008. To 2012-13 March 2009

2006 ()

crisp white fruit, a little spice on the nose, which is a little “steely”. The palate`s soft white fruit is a little low in acidity – the flavour is escapist. A bit short, a commercial sort of wine that lacks clarity. Drink soon. June 2007

2005

buttery, flan air with marked spice, dried white fruits also, air brings in pineapple. Good, forthright bouquet. Bold attack to the palate, a robust wine with a lid on its power, but needs food to suppress the power. Spiced white plum flavour, finishes tightly. Can evolve. To 2012. June 2007