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The Wines

32-60% Viognier, 30-68% Clairette (1979), 0-10% Grenache blanc, 0-10 % Picpoul (blend changes) from galet stone soils on the plateau of Lirac & the slopes of Saint Laurent des Arbres, new oak vat fermented 4 weeks, raised 6 months, then steel vat raised 1-2 months, malo blocked, heavy bottle, “drink with foie gras, shellfish, strong cheese”, 2,600-4,500 b

2018 ()

yellow robe, a little opaque. Elderberry, grape essence airs lead the bouquet, a nudge of vanilla. It’s low key today, perhaps based on Clairette. The palate holds comfortable gras richness with a suave, trim moment before the finish, a peach flavour there, a note of toffee and succulence on the close. It’s not really hit its stride yet, can emerge further, has a sound foundation. It will be a full glass for sauced dishes if left for two to three years. From 2020, try decanting. 14.5°. 2027-28 May 2019

2017

sturdy yellow colour. There are nibbles of exotic fruits, oak on the nose, toasting the backdrop, some spearmint. There’s a floral refinement within the fruit, as if old vine sève [sap] is involved. Oak gains fast with air. The palate runs graciously, still in the arms of its oaking, so there is a mango-guava jelly flavour. The content has a silken touch, even if it’s under the oak for now. It has very good heart, a sustained mid-palate, and goes long. Decanting advised. 14.5°. From mid-2020 – less oak, more open. 4,500 b. 68% Clairette, 32% Viognier. 2028-29 Sept 2018

2016 ()

handsome, clear fine yellow colour. The nose is an appealing bundle of mixed white fruits including pear, apricot, with a line of freshness, and vanilla from the oak. It’s interesting, varied already, has lemon notes. The palate delivers free wheeling juice with underlying firmness past the mid-point. The freshness on palate and nose is genuine, and its inner strength of gras sits well. This is very stylish, top grade Lirac blanc, artfully made. It is wine for la table, served in a large glass, drink with turbot, halibut. It has tremendous length. 14.5°. 2024-25 June 2017

2014 ()

full yellow colour. The bouquet is broad, has an oily air of essence of fruit, a white plum and toasted aspect. The palate is copious, filled with ripe peach, mango flavours. It is throwing off its oak, centres on exotic fruits now. Drink with sauced fish, sea bass with morilles mushrooms, for example. 14.5°. 2021-22  Feb 2016 

2012 ()

bright pale yellow. There is a mix of honey and acacia flowers, smoke on the nose where the fruit is bright, live, lemon-cooked. The palate debut signals supple, stylish fruit; this is a clean-winded Lirac blanc, with the floral theme reviving on the finish. Stylish, modern, but there is a technological leaning, a clipped aspect to it. There are banana and oak hints on the finish. 14.5°. 60% Viognier, 30% Clairette, 10% Grenache blanc, 2,600 b this year. 2018-19  May 2013

2011 ()

two bottles tasted, 1st bottle corked. 2nd bottle: shiny, appealing yellow. The bouquet combines verveine (verbena) and an iodine, pear, pear bonbon aroma, with banana from the cellar work. The palate has a spiced, pear-Viognier fat, but oak builds up on the finish and dominates there. It isn’t in agreement between its elements – oak, fat, acidity. The aftertaste is heated, is a clumsy wine, pas pour moi, even if I try to give every wine the max chance. 45% Viognier, 45% Clairette, 10% Picpoul, 2,600 b this year. To 2017-18? 14.5°. May 2013

2009

mild yellow; apricot, pear skin, nicely varied bouquet that comes with spice touches, vanilla. Typical white Lirac with a full nature, gains grip and weight, ends well with just a little burn on the aftertaste, which suggests oak. I find acetate here. There is a slight lees influence on the finish. 14.5°. To 2016.  July 2011