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The Wines

70-90% Grenache (1900s-1960s), 10-30% Mourvèdre (1960s) from Le Parc (beige marl, silt soils) & Les Débats-nord (clay-sandy silt deeper soils), destemmed since 2002/03 but crop not crushed, 4-6 week steel vat vinification of two different plots apart, cultured yeasts, daily pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, turbo cap punching with micro oxygen, 90-100% concrete vat, 0-10% used 600-litre oak cask raised 24 months, not made in 2002, v little in 2007, 2008, unfined, filtered, 5-18,000 b

2016 ()

(concrete vat/cask) full, dark robe. There are gentle airs of cassis fruit, a kind sweetness in them, on the nose, and a hint of iodine coolness. It has graceful potential. The palate offers easy textured black fruited matter, mild tannins well in the wheel, ends roundly, low-key. It’s a wine that will please, aided by its serene, unhurried manner. It is a good CHR, restaurant wine, able to accompany a good variety of dishes. From 2019 for a little extra cohesion. 2028-29 Feb 2018

2012 ()

dark, intense robe with a rich aspect. Beefstock, healthy brewing on the nose, a prune richness with 2012 lucidity, full of southern oiliness. The palate is all close-knit, holds the charm and good depth of 2012, the sap [sève] of the old vines well installed. It holds a savoury, silken texture, appeal. Menthol, cool tannins appear late on, mineral in the flavour. This is very harmonious, a pleasing wine that expresses a refined southern truth. It’s moving into good shape now. 14°. 2033-35 Feb 2018 Previously Dec 2013 **** (vat, bottling early 2015) dark robe. The aroma is gentle, bears airs of black berry and stylish prune with violet, licorice and a touch of square cut that suggest Mourvèdre (tasted blind – 15% as it turns out). The palate is spritzy, carries shimmering black fruit, tasty moments; tannins push into the frame, carry thyme and sweet herbs with them. It is nice and coherent with firm, chocolate touches on the finish. Carefully made, a wine of good, clear potential. From 2016. €13.50. 18,000 b. 2025-28  Dec 2013

2010

bottling tomorrow, filtered four days ago: Nice dark robe. Big liqueur of cassis/blackcurrant ofDijonaroma – it has a jelly fruit intensity, really bounds out with eager intent. There are also notes of raspberry. It is in a very primary state. The palate has a low-key, serene richness, is smoothly textured. The filling here comes entirely from the grapes and vineyard, and not from the cellar. There are ripples of appealing fat, scented moments, towards the finish. A wine of grand stature, interesting and deep, well-balanced. From mid-2015. 14°. 6,700 b this year. 2029-31  May 2013

2008

(vat) darker tints than the Maître de Chais. Has a compact bouquet – red plum fruit at its heart. It is wide, has potential, offers light violet and herbs. The palate holds bustling, active fruit with enough guts to go into a successful secondary stage. Has good, fine acidity. Its fruit is purposeful, is clear. Licorice lies in a good, firm aftertaste. From 2012. 2019-21 July 2010

2007

(vat) some matt in the tone of the red robe. Dusty first air, a mix of vanilla and savoury chicken stock in the bouquet, which is shapely and whose fruit is mainly scented plum. The palate is tight knit – this is a fine bone wine that is not really firing now. Needs 2+ years. It has been well constructed, is not a power house. Has a peppery lining, is distant from the modern fleshy school. 2019-21 July 2010

2005 ()

red with black traces. Steady, sustained nose – the fruit sticks together, has a polished air, is ready to evolve and vary – shows herb, red fruits. Well-grounded fruit leads the palate, comes with density, chew which grows as it goes. The heartiest of the three Vacqueyras here, the most earthy. Length is OK. Wait until spring 2010 – this is not a wine to drink young. Suited to winter dishes. 2016-18 Nov 2008