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The Wines

55-60% Clairette blanche (mid-1970s), 35-40% Grenache blanc (late 1980s), 0-10% Roussanne (2013) from sandy-limestone, grey marl soils at Les Débats next to the domaine, pre-fermentation crop cooling, co-fermented in steel vat at 14°C over 6 weeks, 50-90% steel vat, 10-50% 1-2-3-4-5 year 600-litre Allier, Vosges, Nevers oak cask raised 4 months, malo blocked, filtered, “drink with cooked Provençal vegetables, fish, sea food, terrines, when a little aged with cheese, truffled eggs”, 2,000-8,000 b

2018

fine yellow hue; has a floral, nicely airborne nose, mild lemon curd present, salted nuts. The palate links very well to the nose, cruises on a refined, gentle wave of citrus fruits, mandarin, salting, carries commendable detail; it shows a little late glow of its place, all well orchestrated. This is stylish and very well made with trim body on the second half, which sets it up for fine fish, halibut, turbot, steamed fish. 13.5°. 50% steel vat, 50% oak. €15.50. 2026-27 April 2020

2017 ()

(steel vat/cask) full yellow, ample robe. The bouquet is sun-filled, carries a grape essence aroma, airs of cooked lemon, lemon curd, cooked pear, white tobacco. The palate has a ginger, tangy flavour with decent freshness, albeit aided by carbonic gas. A little grilling shows late on, with a pear flavour, apricot. It’s full, needs la table. It can get together more completely if left for another six to nine months: from 2019, say. There is inner strength which will allow it live. 13.5°. 60% steel vat, 40% cask. 2023-24 Feb 2018

2016

yellow robe. Dried fruits, cooked lemon, saltiness feature in a live nose with good foundation. There is oak toasting in a refined palate, with good grip. It ends on aniseed [Clairette influence], good cut, has some local drive. There are more orange zest touches, and it’s grapey-floral towards the finish. This is good terroir wine, decanting helpful. “Drink with asparagus, gambas, scallops, steamed fish, sea bass, red mullet perfect; once it has a bit of evolution, drink with cheese, truffled eggs,” Marie-Thérèse Combe. 13.5°. 50% steel vat, 50% cask raised. Bottled May 2017. 2023-24 Feb 2018

2015 ()

pale yellow. Has a lime, freshly-fruited aroma with white plum and soft flowers airs, butter, vanilla pod from the oak, peanut paste as well. This is enjoyable, holds a nutty, white plum flavour, some late aniseed, with soft textures and fine grip. It’s a squelchy, fleshy wine with a rounded shape, for paella, poultry. It is just a bit one-dimensional, has a New Wave styling. 13.5°. 2021-22 June 2017

2014 ()

shiny pale yellow. Lime, exotic fruits aroma, a nudge of grapefruit, refined peach – the nose has a stylish, airborne quality. It is restrained, reflects the domaine style well. The palate is a good blend of nuts and light citrus fruit, its acidity right on the button. This has stealthy depth, persistence. Late carbonic gas injects breeze. This is a good aperitif wine, or drink with chicken, or cooked vegetables. There are notes of licorice, fennel (from the Clairette) and some nuttiness towards the finish, where it grips with quiet insistence. 13.5°. €13.50. 5,000 b. To 2020  Feb 2016

2013

pale gold colour. Has an attractive nose – it is pure and fresh, with the accent on fruit, which gives peach and melon with floral notes. The attack is rich and round, before a clean and dry finish. The palate is less vibrant than the nose. 2017-18  JL Dec 2014

2012

clear robe – it is yellow, with wee tints of lime. The bouquet offers nicely precise fruit, mixes lime, aniseed, shows an almost box plant, sauvignon-like freshness. The palate favours elegance, a well-knit harmony, fruits such as nectarine with some citrus cut and clarity. The length is good. Has local ID. Suited to simply cooked, steamed fish, salads, fowl, and has the elegance to be close to aperitif status. 14°. €12.50 at cellars. 2,000 b this year, a small crop. 2019-20. May 2013

2009

very pale robe; tight, pear-led aroma, snappy, has light honey in it, is free n'easy. Aperitif wine, which is tight, nutty, crisp. Has a lime, nougat flavour. Taut but quite effective. 2014-15 July 2010

2007

pale robe; sprightly, spritzy white fruits aroma, some pear here. Good little fleshy mid-palate – this is not a wine of great depth, is one that runs quite easily, albeit a shade fleeting. Can do as aperitif wine. “Aperitif, grilled fish, or Picodon cheese,” Marie-Thérèse Combe. 13.5°. To 2010 Nov 2008