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The Wines

70-75% Grenache (1975, 1985), 20% Syrah (late 1960s, late 1970s), 0-15% Mourvèdre (1994) from clay-limestone garrigue soil terraces, hand harvested, 1-2 vats or 10-20% whole bunch, especially Mourvèdre, then rest destemmed, 3-4 day 15°C cold crop maceration, 3-6 week vinification, wild yeasts, pumping overs at first, 1 part vat emptying/refilling, 90% vat, 10% 1-3 year 228-litre oak casks raised 6 (drastic reduction from 21 months from mid-2010s on), unfined, unfiltered, called Le Mourre de la Caille since 2014, organic wine, 40,000 b

2018

very dark robe; the bouquet swirls with oily abundance, has captured the bounty of the growing season. It’s full of black fruits notably cassis, a sweet, liqueur dosage in them. The palate is also vibrant, furnished with sweet, ample, wavy runs of black fruits, cherries, blackcurrants. The tannins bring a little late vigour, which helps it to stay on track and not fade. It’s a generous wine, suited to lamb stews, North African preparation, spicing, couscous. €13. From mid-2021. 2035-37 Feb 2020

2016 ()

dark red colour. There’s a brewed curve to the bouquet, ripe damson fruit, prune present, sweetness apparent. The palate is spiced, runs easily, is in the here and now already, is a shade commercial in tenor. The length is fair. Suited to stews, country dishes. The finish has some lip smack. It ends with a little spicing. 14.5°. 35 hl/ha. 80% Gren, 20% Syr. From late 2018. 2024-25 Feb 2018

2015

dark red robe, lighter top rim. The nose reveals an air of sweet, stewed black fruits, a prune essence at its heart. The palate is immediately tasty, carries sweet, soft black fruited content with mild tannins in tow. The aftertaste involves some lightly powdered tannins. This is instant, open Vacqueyras, which doesn’t truly carry its depth to the close. There is a floral angle to the flavour, and the finish brings out some licorice. It’s fluid, a little fleeting, with a slight sense of Volatile Acidity. 14°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. 40,000 b. €12. 2020-21 June 2017

2014 ()

dark colour; there is a well rounded blackberry aroma leading the nose with a smidgin of black coffee, licorice. The palate is fresh and runs truly with blueberry fruit, some cool tannins lining the finish. The late stages deliver a good, savoury quality to the wine, a joli spot of gras there. 14°. €11.50. From 2017. 2023-25  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

pale red; smoky, cherry stone, kirsch aroma – a bouquet of tight sides, a rather square shape. The palate is rather strict; grippy tannins hang around a little stream of red stone, smoked fruit. Not distinguished. There is a minor crunch and clack from its tannins. Questions of vineyard management and ripeness here. From late 2015. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv. £99 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2019-20 Nov 2014

2012 ()

bright, rather full red. The nose is reserved, but promising. It has an air of flint stone, very light licorice, attractive blackberry, shows a sprinkle of light garrigue herbs. The palate links well to the nose – it grows its tarry dark fruit in an intense little ball, picks up well as it goes. A Vacqueyras of some restraint, has cool fruit lines. Tasty fruit lies at its centre. It is still a bit unmade, but the clarity of the fruit allows some drinking now. Good with lamb. 14.5°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv this year. £99 12 b in bond H2Vin GB www.h2vin.co.uk 2020-21  Nov 2013

2011

dark robe, red-black. Has a solid aroma of soaked plums, a fatness of red fruit – the style is mature over bright. The palate has a sweet, rather flattering 2011 abundance; more is delivered on the start than the finish which is a bit sweet and jam-like, the fruit red. This is advancing now on the palate. It needs greater acidity to really be a big player over time. It does have some local feel, though. 14.5°. 70% Gren, 20% Syr, 10% Mourv this year, €10, not expensive. 2019-20  May 2013

2010

very dark robe; the nose has a brewed side, some meat. It gives dark fruits with a ripeness that takes it towards jam–like exuberance, also licoirce. There are several layers of aroma in this. The palate is chocolate-like, really tasty right off, gets going and offers a lot of taste, a lot of wine. Its tannins are very well embedded, on the go. Very good wine: it ends on a fine grain note, is authentic. There is plenty of taste in this – its black fruits are deep, persistent. STGT wine that shows Vacqueyras from the Garrigues in a good, correct light. You can drink it now for vigour, it is well drinkable. “Complete wine – it has fruit and structure,” Philippe Bernard. 2019-21 May 2012 Previously Feb 2012 **** dark, shiny robe. Spice and pepper air, rather bright fruit such as black cherry – the nose comes with an earthy line behind, and is young and offers some potential. There is a solid foundation of black fruit on the palate, with life and a fine grain in its tannins. It is upright now, but has the ability to unlock and vary over time. The finish is firm – it drives along there. From autumn 2013. It has more precision than several 2010 Vacqueyras, which can be potent. 14°8. “Complete wine – it has fruit and structure,” Philippe Bernard. Bottled Oct 2011. 2021-22 Feb 2012

2009 ()

the robe is tiling at the top, below a subdued red. Damp vegetation, forest floor along with prune on the nose, which is one of warm lands. There are foxy notes, and it advances as it breathes. This is smoothly textured from the off, holds the sun of the year, and continues surely, the finale on menthol. The tannins are furry. This is Regular Guy, traditional Vacqueyras, has seen better days. 80% Gren, 20% Syr. To 2020 Feb 2018

2008 ()

largely dark red robe with a healthy shine. Menthol, a touch of damp forest on the nose, which holds well, a good display of black fruits. The palate has a minted theme, bears soft gras, is Redondo and aromatic. Fine tannins with good cut appear on the finish. This is drinking really well now, on soft content, singing well. There is a flavour of the pulp of dates, but freshness, too. 14.5°. 2022-23 Feb 2018