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The Wines

70% Grenache, 20% Syrah (mid-1980s and older), 10% Mourvèdre/Cinsault/Carignan, 15-25 day vinification, part vat emptying/refilling, pumping overs, can do cap punching, aged large barrel 8-15 months, unfined, unfiltered, 1995, 1998, 2001, 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2016, three bottlings – March, June, Nov, biodynamic wine, 30-35,000 b

2016

dark red, a robe with lustre; cooked plum airs lead the nose, which has a ring of purity, a coulis of cassis also beyond that. It’s a good start, very much on fruit. The palate bears good, rolling black fruits that are delivered freshly, with tannins on the up towards the finish. This has fresh balance, good potential. The nose to palate link is close. There’s admirable lightness on its feet within a solid vintage setting. “It’s balanced,” Serge F. 14.5°. Bottled Nov 2018. From 2021. 2037-39 Feb 2019 Previously Feb 2018 **** (large barrel, first bottling March 2018) very dark robe. Has a good southern climes nose, black olives, intense black cherry, tobacco, meatiness; it glistens with ripeness. The palate wells up on gourmand black fruits, sweet notes through it, keeps moving and flourishes on the finish – is varied and stimulating there. It presents a pepper thread towards the finish, some firm tannins within, on the go. This carries good potential, is upbeat, interesting wine, with a pebbly garrigue close. “It took a very, very long time to put itself in the right place to sort itself out,” Frédéri Férigoule. Decanting advised. 14.7°. From spring 2020. 2033-35 Feb 2018

2013

plum red robe. This has a striking, notably cool bouquet, gives blueberry, light licorice, pepper, geranium – it has good variety. The palate starts in that rocky, dentelle fashion. Plucky juice lies at its heart, has a quiet intensity when it appears. This is tangy, naked wine, with a fine structure. It is attractive inside its rocky coat. It flourishes and expands on the finish. From 2017. 13.5°. 2028-29  July 2016

2010 ()

dark, shiny and full red. The nose combines some floral elegance with crunchy fruit, its intensity camouflaged for now. The fruit is dark and concentrated, accompanied by licorice. The palate delivers more crunchy fruit, has a brisk line of tannin with licorice and droplets of tar, barbecued steak on exit. It has a dusty infill with fruit emerging in parts on the finish. Good length and balance - its acidity is good, and helps its length. There is minor late glow on the aftertaste. Marks for character, an upbeat wine here. “It is a grand vintage, lots of promise,” Frédéric Férigoule. 14°. From spring 2014. 2026-29  Oct 2012  Previously Feb 2012 ****(*) (barrel, bottling March 2012) slightly fuller robe than Lopy 2010; has a wide, square shaped aroma, very full content, a tight-knit air, carries southern black olive notes. On day 2, the fruit is ripe, shows the aromas of sunny days, roses, flowers. The palate has the intensity of old vines, a thorough depth. In a hot vintage, this would be high octane, but has enough freedom to keep moving; there is fine acidity wrapped into this. Sound cut on the finish. Worth waiting until it is seven to eight years' old, to allow it to vary and deliver beyond its current secrets. Has a sustained, near sturdy richness. The Lopy is more fun, dramatic. Balanced, suave, sleek – it is all on the fruit now, represents a classy Rhône. 2032-34 Feb 2012

2007

full robe; crunchy, chocolate and brewed nose with oak touches – this is a full, quite potent, sturdy bouquet. The palate has a square shape, is chunky and rather cellar-constructed. It is an effective wine, but I find it extracted and rather taut. It ends on mint, dusty, pebbly tannins. A big wine by design, one that packs heat. From 2011, though can be drunk now. 2018-20 July 2010 Previously Jan 2008 Syrah portion dark and purple robe; nice, comfortable primary nose with ripe fruit that has a curve in it. Well-set on the palate – aimiable fruit with nice richness, and late on some oily black fruits. Grenache portion (“not my most characterful wine”) dark robe, refined black fruits aroma. Direct, clear fruit on palate – a wine of life and some richness, good clear finish. Promising given his comment. Jan 2008

2004

quite a dark robe with a hue moving towards matt. Filled, black fruit bouquet with herbs and leather and a meaty backing – this can broaden out well. Round and nicely woven palate. The fruit is elegant, the texture fine boned. Long wine – there is a leathery, licorice finish with ripe, live tannins. Good tickle of fruit as it ends. OK now, but esp from 2008 for a little more harmony. 2014-16 March 2007

1998 ()

intense red, very thorough colour; the nose is really deep, very dark, closed, profound, shows a lot of black fruit lying low for now. The palate is peppered, bears nicely tight black fruits, smoky darkness. The Grenache here is notably ripe, but there’s a pebbly aspect that moves away from the Grenache as a sphere shape – that’s the garrigue effect. It’s upright, complex, pretty damn good. 58 Francs at the cellars. From 2003. 2020-22 Nov 2000

1995

harmonious, peppered, black fruits aroma that is intense and mature, with smoke and leather circling it. Has a beefy palate, with its tannins still in control, providing a dry, licorice finale. There is a tension in this, as if its matter is struggling to show through. A masculine wine – will it come round with age? Has a punchy appeal now. Very much in the mirror of its vintage. 2011-13 March 2005