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The Wines

75% Grenache (early 1950s, stony clay-limestone soils), 25% Syrah (late 1970s, sandy soils) on La Pointe, destemmed, 2 week concrete vat vinification of varieties together, daily pumping overs, cap punchings, aged 3-10 year 225-litre, 450-litre, 600-litre oak casks 16-18 months, unfined, unfiltered, label has words sous la tyrannie under the vintage, called Montagne Vieille until 2012, 800-4,000 b

2017 ()

dark red robe, a healthy aspect. The bouquet has a concentrated aroma of black fruits, prune, with inner sweetness. It has the sun of the garrigue bouncing off it, a note of menthol. The palate is firmly fuelled, comes with robust Grenache red fruit, spicing, bears assertive tannins, travels with resolute intent to the finish, which involves those tannins with a little chalky crispness, pings of iron. The aftertaste is good and smoky. There’s lots going on. This has character, and feels connected to its place, is STGT Vacqueyras. 14.5°. 2,500 b. 75% Gren, 25% Syr. €17. From mid-2021 at the earliest. 2037-39 Feb 2020


(casks) dark red. Agreeable bouquet, pinpoint sweetness in its black berry fruit, a slightly musky note of ripeness, some southern oiliness. The palate runs well from the bouquet, offering tasty, enjoyable black fruits with a winning juiciness, some notions of power. The tannins nudge it towards darker moments on a clear, cool, menthol-like finish. Good from A to Z, a balanced wine, and superior Vacqueyras 2016 here. There’s commendable refinement and detail in the late juice. This can sing a bonny tune. 14.5°. 4,000 b. From mid-2019. 2030-32 Feb 2018


(casks) dark red colour. This has a big, accentuated oak-smoke, charcoal first aroma with an inner air of cassis, black fruit lozenges: it clearly needs time to fuse. The palate has a pine flavour from its oak, carries blueberry fruit that runs with ease. It hasn’t yet gelled, and will need leaving until 2018. I wonder why the oak is so strong: less of it or a more moderate heating might have been more wise. The finish is fairly rounded. 14°. 2,000 b. €16 at the cellars. 2021-22  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

shiny dark red robe. The nose is reserved, gives a clear but latent air of black cherry with sweet herbs present, light notes of toffee. This is tight but fluid, presents a restricted display of black berry fruit, needs coaxing out. It ends on raspberry fruit, gummy tannins. The sign-off is spiced,, well sustained, rather dark. Decant this. 14°. From mid-2016.  2023-24  Dec 2015 Previously Dec 2014 *** (casks) purple-garnet hue to the robe. There are spicy, red fruit notes on the nose with a touch of herbs. The palate is firm and solid, the tannins a little tough on the finish. Allow some time for the tannins. 14.5°. 1,500 b. €15 at the cellars. From mid-2016. 2021-22 JL Dec 2014


shiny, handsome, dark red robe. Blackberry fruit leads the bouquet, airs of ground coffee, a hint of black raisin and rosemary – it has both a neat purity and depth. The palate is compact, enjoyable, carries stylish gras at its centre, with black pepper outcrops. This has a precise make-up. Its juice travels quite far, the finish is clear. It is a belle ensemble. 14°. 2022-23 Dec 2015 Previously Dec 2013 **** (casks) full, dark red. The nose isn’t yet an ensemble – there are airs of green apples, oak toasting, a lot of smokiness, before a lower level of prune, concentrated black berry juice, an oily blackberry – the bouquet is rich, has good dash. The palate is broad and oaked, with a vigorous combination of fruit and clear-cut tannin. A powdered, garrigue leave-behind works well. This appeals through its energy and good, punchy display. The aftertaste is finely aromatic. Modern wine, with drive, its oak requiring 2 years to settle. From late 2015. 75% Gren, 25% Syr. 14°. €13 at the cellars. 1,500 b. 2025-26  Dec 2013

2011 ()

2 bottles tasted. Bottle 1: dark red, lighter rim. Taint on the nose. Bottle 2: crushed blackberry fruit with garrigue influenced, sweet herbs on the nose. It is just starting its second stage, with an increased sense of ripeness and variety coming along. The palate starts on spice, its red fruit clear; it holds the purity of the domaine, drives on well, finishes with a little tar-date gusto in it. Charming, open, easy to enjoy. It finishes with grip, from its 100% whole bunches. 14°. 2021-22 Dec 2015 Previously May 2013 ***(*) dark plum red. Cooked plum, rather thick bouquet which is all close-knit, and not yet out and about. The aroma is based on Grenache, has a little mocha darkness. Prune, blackberry fruit start the palate, and holds up well. Traditional, well-made wine that widens on lively tannins and some warm lands thrust. The tannins need 18 months to two years, are vigorous and local. Tasty, genuine wine. From 2015 to allow the finish to meld. 14°. 70% Gren, 30% Syr. 2022-23. 2,000 b. €12 at cellars.  May 2013


dark red robe, lustre in it. Grilled, chocolate-toned aroma with some scorched notes, violet – this is a mixed and unusual combination, shows charcoal from the oak and an air of green olive: I am not sure. The palate has a black raisin, nutty, rather Vin Nature style, with pebbly notes running through it, a nutty finale also. It is woven with some prune, blackberry, has fluid gras at its centre. Not that typical, has its own style thanks to the grain of the gras and the oak. The fruit and richness inside it are clear, but the oak surfaces again on the finish. It is more homogenous on the palate than the nose. 14°. €12 at the cellars. 2022-23  May 2013