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The Wines

40-50% Grenache, 50-60% Syrah (1989) from oak tree surrounded clay-limestone soils on Le Deves, destemmed, light crush, cold maceration, 3-4 week concrete vat vinification, wild yeasts, pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, vat-aged 12-24 months, unfiltered, organic, biodynamic wine, 10-40,000 b

2018 ()

(vat) dark colour; the bouquet is sized, beefy, has a brooding air of cooked, liqueur-style black fruits, the oiliness of the ripe South, with licorice touches. The palate holds coated, ripe content, has a savoury, also aromatic nature, late intensity in the fruit, which is borderline too much. There are no noticeable tannins. It will be more calm if left until 2022 or so. 15°. 17,000 b. 50% Gren, 50% Syr. €30.69 at cellars. 2031-33 Feb 2020


deep black-tinted robe; the bouquet speaks of the ripe vintage, has a succulent, rather weighty bearing, liqueur of black fruits at the helm. The palate is also sweetly furnished, with oxtail notes, cooked plums, an ample dimension. It finishes with a lip smack, persists. It’s opulent, but not overdone. It’s not far off ready, decant it. 15°. 17,000 b. 50% Gren, 50% Syr. €30.69. From late-2020. 2032-34 Feb 2020


dark robe. The nose has a brothy, full, black-fruited nature, coulis of Morello cherries in the heart of it. There is inner power, but soundly camouflaged. The palate works on texture, with a rolling sweet delivery of juicy matter, ripe, even savoury tannins attached. There is a cool, prolonged length, and this has been well made to go with duck breast, beef dishes. The fruit is tasty, instantly likeable. 15°. 17,200 b. 50% Gren, 50% Syr. From 2019. 2030-31 Feb 2018


sombre dark red colour. The nose flirts with reduction, indicating Syrah, so there is a meatiness, along with a perfumed quality, violets and Pez sweets with red berries such as raspberry. It’s a curvy, stylish opening. The palate is also floral, holds neat, soft juice with spicing in tow. There is an appealing serenity in this unhurried wine, with good, precise detail in its fruit and definition. The aftertaste persists in a fine register, gives scented red fruits. From spring 2018, decanting helpful. 13.5°. 10,000 b. 50% Gren, 50% Syr. €30. 2027-28 March 2017


dark robe. The bouquet gives a brewed air of dark berry fruit, with a mulled nature, stewed plums on the agenda. The palate is based on sweet Grenache fruit, strawberry jam, has a liqueur, lightly floral leaning. Traditional Vacqueyras, one that moves rather sluggishly, but there are pockets of clarity. 13.5°. 10,000 b. €30.09. 2020-21.  Dec 2015 

2013 ()

dark red; blackberry liqueur, well lifted air, a nose that is all cleanly struck, with light licorice, but no real extras as yet. The palate delivers juicy and joli fruit with a garrigue presence, and STGT, local elements, as it closes. This is very faithful to its terroir – it is an expressive Vacqueyras, in the higher echelon of quality this year. It holds very pretty fruit in mid-palate. The finish is a wee bit dry, the aftertaste spiced. Allow time for fusion, notably on the finish. 13.5°. 60% Syrah, 40% Gren, instead of 50%-50%. Bottled Dec 2014. From 2017. 2024-26  Feb 2015 Previously Dec 2014 *** (vat) (vat) purple-garnet colour. Red and dark berry aroma on the nose. This is sweet on the attack with a firm follow through. Its finish is hard and dry, however. 13.5°. From 2016. 2020-22 JL GB £66/6 bots in bond Berry Brothers 0800 280 2440 +44(0)207 022 8973  www.bbr.com  Dec 2014

2012 ()

(vat) bright, dark robe. The nose has a raw talent – a liberal stretch of black berry fruit, bacon, grilled touches. Lots of potential and bustle here – it is in a primary state now. It is dark in nature, has a grunt factor, with chocolate and some licorice in the breeze. The palate rocks well on its lively black fruiting, is full of purpose. This will drink well from mid-2015 – it is a good, up tempo Vacqueyras, but it may slow down and concentrate its forces over time, so a splendid second stage is on the agenda around 8 years old. The fruit is sleek to the end, and there is a low-level, crisp tannin present. It finishes solidly, is a good, no messing around wine. 14°. 17,000 b. €30 at cellars. 2023-26  Dec 2013

2011 ()

dark robe, plenty in it. There is a note of reduction on the bouquet, which exudes an earthy-truffly combination. Comes with black berry fruit, is a very primary aroma, and hasn’t gained maximum variety. It is well mixed, and combines hints of violet, chocolate, black olive, tar and grilling. The palate has a mixed flavour of tea, prune, smoked tar. Has good, genuine heart, works on abundance. It shows garrigue influences such as pine and herbs towards the finish, is authentic, STGT wine. From late 2014. 14°. 17,000 b this year, €30 at the cellars. 2025-26  May 2013  Previously Oct 2012 **** dark colour; notably ripe, also meaty air – there is a prominent wave of cassis blackcurrant here, tar and tobacco, a strong milled or liqueur note in the cassis. The palate spreads well, is tasty, bears a lot of succulent fruit, is shapely. It is fat, with its attack setting that trend. Grainy tannin comes forward on the finish, a smudge of lead pencil there. The aftertaste is wide, sustained, lip-smacking. 14°. From 2015  2025-26.  Oct 2012

2009 ()

dark, shiny robe; coffee-cocoa, brewed black fruit aroma – a good, primary thrust, sets it up well. Solid, meaty tinted black fruit delivery on the palate - a gutsy wine with deep content. The matter at its heart is ripe, , the length continues well. Robust and persistent, will do well. From 2013. 2022-24 July 2010


fair depth of red in the robe; crunchy, upright raspberry fruit airs – the nose is rather bold, but marked by downhome, Brett style yeasty influences. The palate has still stiff fruit, is beyond what I would call angular. It ends on that flat note, is a solid and compacted wine, not at all breezy. Decant this. Food a must. From late 2011. 2018-20 July 2010


2 bottles tasted, the 1st bottle a little dry. Bottle 2: medium depth Grenache red; the nose shows reduction, but is stylish, leads with simmered plum fruit airs; it flirt with thyme, herbs. This is a calm 2007; it is smoothly textured, the matter is compact, holds round and entrenched tannins, is still wide near the finish. It is still running on the finish, which is round and shows some Provence herbs. 14°. 2022-24  Sept 2013  Previously July 2010 **** dark robe; funky, gamey, brooding, reductive bouquet – there is good persistence of fruit in it, is in a primary state still, needs decanting. The palate fruit is cluded by tannin, raw youth. The black fruit at its heart is polished and confident. Still very young, barely out of short trousers. There are good raw materials here, though I find a sense of lees late on, rather a brut de cuve/vat style. From late 2011. 2019-21 July 2010


gamey, mulled red fruits nose with a sweet curve and a baked air. There is spice within the mature red fruit on the palate – this doesn't give a live feel. It ends tightly, on a pepper note. The length is OK. It needs more fat. Try from 2010 spring. 2013-15 March 2009

2005 ()

full, black fruited bouquet, soft air with a slightly floral top. Stylish black fruit with some leather and prune tone. Good richness all through, elegant feel to it. This is classy and persistent, length is good. 2016-18 March 2007

2004 ()

well-founded black fruit on bouquet, leathery in style, gently cooked berries, some mint and licorice. Palate starts with black berries and plum flavours; there is helpful acidity here behind the sustained black fruits. The texture is woven, and there are nice bits of life and vigour here. The general tone is quite rounded. 2015-17. They have made good 2004s here. March 2007 Previously July 2005 (vat) ***(*) reduced but solid nose – is well cut, has some earthiness. Tasty and full palate, with resources – notably the flavour runs with black jam and some leathery moments. The fruit is attractive, and there is plenty here. Good length and quality. Stylish wine, with body. Esp 2007-08 on. 2017-18

2003 ()

sound, quite dark plum colour; has a harmonious, lingering bouquet with a combination of jam and flowers to the fore. The palate's stone fruits come with an appealing cool thread. The length is good, there is a floating finale, and the finish is clear and elegant, especially for the vintage. STGT wine. 2013-15 March 2007 Previously July 2005 *** black tones in the robe; the aroma is well-knit – shows black jams with a touch of incipient game. The palate starts with black stone fruit, and develops a good, chunky nature as it goes. Has scale, and some meatiness, and develops a chewy, but well textured finale, with ripe and round tannins there. 2016-17 July 2005


mild, red berry jam aroma with a smoky top, and a leaning towards damp woods as it ages. The palate is wham – all over a bit quickly. Has a mid-weight plum flavour, but starts to dry towards the finish. Drink now to 2006. July 2005

2001 ()

(Clos Montirius by name) decent red robe; wholesome, gripping nose, here is the Vaucluse . . . it is meaty, shows some baked tones, garrigue and herbs. The palate is broad, bears good fruit with Syrah on top and adding both height and cut to the Grenache. Syrah in a cooler vintage such as 2001 can perform down here. Black fruits, more prune appear towards the finish. It is still in a primary condition, will move in 12 months’ time. Good length. 2014-15  Dec 2004

1998 ()

(Clos Montirius by name) full, maturing robe; pebbly, leathery nose with good depth. The palate starts richly, with copious, round content in it: has life and some bounce. Good mix of red fruits trimmed with a leather effect from the tannins. Young for its age. 2011-13 March 2005