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The Wines

50% Bourboulenc (1992-93), 25% each Grenache blanc (mid-1950s), Roussanne (1992-93) from 2 hectares on garrigue soils with a sand, sandstone couch, destemmed, crop cooled, steel vat fermented at 15°C, assembled after fermentation, vat raised 6 months, malo blocked, filtered, organic, biodynamic wine, 4,000-5,500 b

2017

bright yellow. Dried fruits, aniseed, ripe white plum airs mix on the nose, with grapey airs, nectarine; it’s a little reduced, so won’t mind breathing. The palate is in a low-key moment now, developing its fat away from the first freshness. There is supple, ripe fruit such as apricot towards the finish. This is wine for la table, lacking some nerve. The length is correct. 13°. 2023-24 Feb 2019

2016 ()

pale yellow. Stewed white fruits compote aroma, likeable fruit, on the nose. The palate is neatly tucked in, has detail, mild gras richness, good life on the finish, all discreetly done. Charm in the glass. “The Bourboulenc was harvested mid-October, six weeks after the other two varieties,” Eric Saurel. 2025-26 Feb 2018

2015

yellow robe has a peach tone in it, looks rather rich. The bouquet offers ripe fruits, exotic touches such as mango in with the more citrus, mandarin influences, and a light air of toasted nuts. The palate is intricately woven together, the flavour based on dried fruits such as apricot with late tang and a salty grip that encourages a second glass. Its mineral signature is most apparent on the close. This will accompany poultry, steamed fish such as sea bass and Asian cuisine, noodles to the fore. It correctly captures the Bourboulenc’s “steel” and freshness. 13°. 5,000 b. 50% Bourb, 25% Gren bl, 25% Rouss. €25.29 at the cellars. 2023-24 Apr 2017

2014 ()

bright, very pale yellow. Has an aniseed, refined pear aroma with a neat display, as if on a tight rein. The palate gives salted, white fruits, quince, is very grippy wine. It is indeed mineral, and leaves the palate fresh and clean on the aftertaste. It is a tidy, self-contained white, which can do the aperitif, or accompany steamed dishes rather than sauced ones. The stylish juice persists in fine fashion. It can tick over, without evolving in a hurry; it is a wine that needs a second thought to appreciate it properly. There is definite saltiness here. 12.5°. 5,000 b. €25.09, not cheap. 2020-21 Jan 2016

2013

pale gold hue. The nose seems a touch murky and unclean. The palate is oxidative, with pointy acidity on the finish. This lacks precision or there is a problem with the sample? 13°. 4,000 b. €25, high. To 2016  JL Dec 2014

2011 ()

pale yellow. Smoky, pear and apricot, jam airs. The palate starts quietly, showing a note of reduction. It is fine at heart, has structure, lowish acidity Smoky notes show up, and the finish is firm and controlled. It ends on saline touches. From mid-late 2013. Decant this. 13°. 2019-20. Bottled March 2012.   Oct 2012

2010

yellow, legs, slight evolution. The nose is interesting, combines pepper, dried apricot, spice, honeycomb. It is a Northern Rhône style bouquet that is broad. The palate links well to the nose, offers almond, honey flavours with a gradual softening of its texture at the end. Attractive acidity, fresh length – there is a tiny lack of gras on the end, which is fresh with fennel notes. The aftertaste is tangy. This can be decanted, is coming along nicely, is stylish. 13°. 2020-21  Oct 2012

2009 ()

light yellow; tilleul (lime-linden), garrigue, lavender, infused tea, almond airs on the nose with a light touch of pear – a stylish bouquet. The palate starts tightly, and is nicely earthy and southern under that. It shows a red wine style late on, moves towards tannin, with vanilla in the flavour. It is chewy on the finish, maybe from the thick skins in 2009 after all the hot, dry weather - it has a typical 2009  firmness. The aftertaste is nutted. “Suited to rich sauces, Asiatic dishes, veal in apricots,” Christine Saurel. 13°. 2020-21  Oct 2012  Previously July 2010 ** yellow tints; creamy, rather plain bouquet – no real distinguishing airs. The palate is also tucked up, lacks a breeze of clarity of its fruit. Best with food. A bit dull and got up, not a free spirit. Some improvement possible. 2013-14  July 2010

2008 ()

yellow-tinted robe, full and clear. The bouquet isn’t exactly sorted – it shows cooked pear, has a wee candy notion, tobacco and white jam: it is fine. The palate is also a bit cautious; it carries the saline theme of these wines, is evolving slowly, ends comfortably, holds restrained gras. There are airborne notes in its feel – it isn’t a table thumper, so drink with fine foods. It is young, and doing well, despite the caution. The aftertaste is smoky, with a light note of fungal, which is the only current clue to any evolution. Overall, though, the end is tender. 13°. 2021  Oct 2010  Previously July 2010 **(*) yellow robe; closed, compact bouquet, salt and varnish present. The palate flavour is obscure; this is a wine that needs food since it is close-packed, but can emerge. Solid at heart. Decant this. From mid-2011. Can improve. 2017-18  July 2010

2007 ()

sustained yellow colour; there is some evolution on the nose, which has damp moments, shows “high” fruit, but is a classic white Rhône evolver – peach and white fruits tart feature. The palate offers a brush with bounty but quickly shuts down, ending on a rather distant, firm note. Changing its nature now, on the move. There are honey escapades on the finish. It will be more obviously rich from 2012. Reflects the vintage well. 2018-20 July 2010

2006

shiny yellow in a robe that shows advance. Brioche, mandarin, butterscotch, vanilla, sesame seed, dried fruits airs here; there is a minor note of oxidation. The palate is oxidative but fresh, especially on the finish, where there is a honeycomb taste. It ends on a compact, almond flavour, dried fruits, firmly. Decant this: it is in transition as it moves along, and doesn’t have a certain centre for now. It is a bit mean with its favours. Leave until 2014. 13°. 2018-19  Oct 2012

2003 ()

full aroma, with a floral nature from the Bourboulenc, shows mature white fruits. This is a sit-down wine, with good width and character. The finish is out of the ordinary, bears aniseed. It has a solid, but well-defined character. An interesting wine of honest southern attributes. To 2011. July 2005