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The Wines

Grenache, Syrah, Mourvèdre, Cinsault from clay soils on Grand Montmirail, destemmed, 3 week vinification at 30°C, daily pumping overs, part vat emptying/refilling, varieties aged separately 95-100% vat, 0-5% oak cask 6-7 months (until early 2010s was 12-15 months, 35,000 b), then assembled, unfined, filtered, 100-170,000 b

2018

dark red; the nose is a Big Production, involves charcoal-oak, cedar, bosky prompts with cassis, smoky fruit within. It’s still very much in the cellar. The palate bears rich, wavy content, black Morello cherry flavouring, with sweet oak towards the finish, the fruit limited there as a result. It’s distant from the vineyard as it stands, is a wine for a specific market. There is life in it, beyond the oak. 15°. €17.50 at cellars. From 2022-23. 2036-38 Feb 2020

2017

(vat) black-tinted, full robe. The nose is reserved, but hints at promise, is on soaked black cherries with notes of licorice. The palate is rich on the attack, holds swell, wavy content, the black fruits liberal in their distribution. This achieves movement more than the static, gloopy sweet wines of the vintage, and the aftertaste is clear, with menthol, smoke present. The length is good. 14°. From spring 2020. 2036-37 Oct 2018

2016

(large barrel) full red colour. The bouquet sits quietly, has mint-menthol notes with a line of blackberry jam, prune fruit and an air of black olives. The palate is well juiced, comes with bright, savoury black-fruited content, and the tannins sustain the finish. I like its local colour, and it’s nice and thorough, without being exerted. There is a typical Gigondas thread of freshness helping it to keep moving. 14°5. €17.50. From mid-2019. 2030-32 Oct 2017

2013 ()

garnet robe – paler at the rim. Has a leafy, herbaceous nose. Red fruits show on the palate, but it is light and simple. This is wine of a Côtes du Rhône level perhaps. There are chewy tannins on the finish. 14°. 100,000 b. €17.60 at the cellars. From 2015. To 2020 JL Dec 2014

2012 ()

quite a dark red; I am not sure how fresh its fruit is – it has an air of stewed plums, herbs and some pebbly grain. The palate offers stewed fruits once more, with light spicing, is a simple and low horizon wine to drink with country foods. It shows black raisin, some date flavour as it ends. The fruit doesn’t carry that far. Drink in the next eight years. To 2020. 170,000 b. 14.5°. €17.60 at the cellars.  Dec 2013

2011 ()

decent, quite full red robe. Has a primary, post-fermentation bubble of red berry fruit and red cherry fruit on the nose, a coulis of red jelly or pastille, has a trace of licorice. This is a round, easy style Gigondas with a plump middle. There is a small level of tannin at the end to close it and provide some grip. Fair length, some cut. Has a smoky, pebbly aftertaste. 14°. From spring 2013. To 2022-23 €17.60 at the cellars. Dec 2012

2008

(cask) red robe, pale at top. Raisin-treacle-cocoa airs – there is a grounded nature to the bouquet, we are in rum baba territory. Knit, black fruit and oak, upright palate – this is charged wine, forces the pace. It needs to shake off its elevage, and will never be a gentle wine due to its cellar handling. Dry finish. From late 2010. 2015-16 Dec 2009