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The Wines

94-95% Syrah, 5-6% Viognier, both varieties planted together, all destemmed since 1996, 25-28 day vinification (except lesser years 2002, 2008 – 18 days), max temperature 25°C-28°C, only pumping overs, no cap punching since 2010, (submerged cap until 2009), with from 2015 a 52 hl tronconic oak vat used, in 2015 aged 52 hl tronconic oak vat 12 months (from 2015), then 65-75% 300-litre, 10-15% 400-litre, 5-10% 500-litre, 10-15% 600-litre oak casks (15% 228-litre oak casks used until 2013) 12 months, usually aged 65-75% 300-litre, 10-15% 400-litre, 5-10% 500-litre oak casks, 10-15% 600-litre casks 18-24 months, total new oak each year 25-30%, (2015, 2016 40% due to need to replace old casks), remaining casks up to 10 years old, Hungarian, French and Russian oak used, with USA oak used until 2010, 2 bottlings in May & Sept, can be fined (2013, 2015), can be filtered (2014), called La Giroflarie since 2015 (is the old name for the Côte Baudin) 20-22,000 (has been 22-30,000 b)


(used 500-litre cask, this is close to the final blend) dark red; the nose is bouncy, good vibration red fruit, well measured depth. The palate runs elegantly, has good drive, more liberty than 2018 seemingly. The tannins are precise, fine, the close fresh. Its style is aromatic. The 2019 here isn’t obviously too dense. “It’s beau for the moment, has acidity, a bit less richness than 2018; I prefer 2018 for now,” P Jasmin. The pH is 3.85 or so – indicating the heat and general low acidity of the vintage. 2045-47 Dec 2019


1) (used 600-litre cask) **** dark red; gently aromatic red fruit on the nose, stylish density with it, an increase in depth on the 2016 and 2017, has sun rays. The palate links well, gives an immediate flow of black fruits and precise tannins that are masked by its oak. Violets hover above it, and there’s a burst of Viognier richness at the end. Its juice is thorough, sustains well, and the balance is decent, too. “It’s more complex aromatically than 2017,” P Jasmin. From 2024. 26 years 2) (400-litre cask, just in this cask after 11 months of vinification & raising in the 52 hl tronconic oak vat, a bit more press wine in it than previous) ***(*) dark, shiny red; red cherry liqueur aroma, simmered fruits, bacon fat, on the nose. The palate holds dark fruit, is muscled from the press wine, gutsy, assertive, a fuelled second half, is a firm Côte-Rôtie. This is the engine room of the blend, its couch. 24 years. “I had to acidify some 2018s,” P Jasmin. 2044-46 Dec 2019


red robe; minor sweetness, strawberry, raspberry, light rose airs, some lead pencil clarity on the nose. The palate gives red fruits, spice, with rocky, smoky firmness, a solid second half leading into a probing finale, crunched together there it is. Low level perfume, scenting, runs through it. There is sunshine depth on the second half. It can become rather interesting, a bit like 2013 with more sun. There is a firm frame around it, while 2016 is more crystalline. “It held very tight tannins at first, but in the last two to three weeks, the fruit is coming through,” P Jasmin. 13.5°. €36 at cellars. Bottled early June 2019. From 2023. 2043-45 Dec 2019


dark red; has a red berry aroma on a gentle curve, raspberry coulis. The palate has an aromatic debut, holds fine content, has a straight line shape, brisk tannins with late vegetal assertion. The length can be good and fresh over time. It has fibre, intricacy, is rather naked. There’s a note of oak, caramel late on. “2016 is a fine year, one of elegance, silky tannins, is starting to close now,” Patrick Jasmin. 13°. From 2022. 2042-44 Dec 2019 Previously July 2017 **** a variety of sources; this was vinified in the 52 hl tronconic oak vat, then mostly transferred to the oak casks for its raising. 1) tronconic vat **** dark red. Has a curvy, sexy aroma of Morello black cherries, a light toffee note, violets in the second tier. It’s a charming and promising start, is well struck. The palate runs with tasty fruit, yum yum, black fruit coulis on wheels. There is a light pepperiness, but the feel is juicy, flowing, attractive. Go-go fruit here. It’s a good northern wine with the southern sunshine in nice proportion. It will close, but is great on its early fruit. Pleasure and decent balance, too here. “Since one to two months, it is nourishing well; I reckon people will go for this, especially with 2015 a stubborn vintage,” Patrick Jasmin. 2035-37 2) new 400-litre oak cask ***(*) dark red. Smoked oak, toffee, black cherry mix in a nose of potential more than being open; it’s sturdy. The palate has a solid base, with black fruits, blackberry, blueberry at its heart. Elegant fruit within pushes on to a clear close. The length is sound. This can make gradual gains. From 2020. 2036-38 3) new 500-litre cask **** dark red; black cherry-oak mix, raspberry liqueur, a beau and well-founded nose. Has a good, active attack, its fruit showing gusto, has live prompts from its tannins, precise moments. Stylish, Burgundian. 2035 or so 4) 3 year 600-litre cask ***(*) lees and reduction on the nose that has a couch of red fruits, pepper also. The palate fruit is clear, and there is good tingle on the finish. 22 years. OVERALL **** a stylish year in prospect, with a gentle sturdiness that will underpin it well. I would leave it until 2021, then go for its then less latent gourmandise and pleasure. 2038-40 July 2017 GB £300 12 b i/b or £312 6 mags i/b Yapp Brothers +44(0)1747 860 423 www.yapp.co.uk sales@yapp.co.uk

2015 ()

(new 400-litre cask, the assembled wine, bottling this month) with the first year of the 52 hl tronconic oak vat, this was aged in that vat for 12 months, then transferred into the oak casks for a further 12 months; 40% of the casks were new, exceptionally, this year: dark red. The broad, well-filled bouquet is led by raspberry, which comes across intensely, has a little floral, geranium with it. The palate is sturdy, holds well-packed red fruits with energy. This is long, persistent, gives a real assertion of fruit. There is a lot stuffing and strength here – it is munchable wine. Granular tannins are scattered across the finish, and there is a couch of content on the close. New oak marks the aftertaste. The pH is 3.55, and the Total Acidity 3.8 – all very good, given the density of the wine, and avoid it being heavy. Fined, unfiltered. “2015 has a belle aromatic complexity, similar to 2010 – it’s not like the very tannic years such as 1995, 2005, 2009,” Patrick Jasmin. From 2021. 2035-37 July 2017

2014 ()

dark plum red robe. The nose is floral, musky; I smell chaptalisation (Patrick did 0.5°); there is the air of a coulis of loganberry, smokiness, a splash of licorice. The palate bears clear fruit, with a siding of dark tannin, later tar from them. It ends on fine powder grain tannins, a change of texture there. “Another four to five days would have helped the phenolic ripening, but we had to pick because of imminent rain,” P.Jasmin. It isn’t quite fused yet; for now, darkness is foremost, and it will be serene around 2020, for instance. It is naked as it stands, with a small concentration of juice after half way. 12.5°. A yield of 36 hl/ha wasn’t bad. “It tasted better four to six weeks ago, and I find it has seemingly lost a bit of fruit,” P Jasmin. 2026-27 July 2017 Previously Apr 2015 **** (assembled casks of 300/400/600 litres) dark, full robe. The nose gives an air of oily, dark fruit, a thick coulis in manner, a black cherry intensity – it has good style and persistence. The palate gives expressive, immediate fruit, is clear toned, with crisp, toothsome features, skips along well. It is juicy in mid-palate, tasty and fluid. Pepper and cloves show on the finish. Has good, naked qualities. It is Nordic, slow gain wine. “It may be a bit ahead of 2012 – it is gaining as we raise it, and will be both gourmand and clear-struck (friand),” Patrick Jasmin. 2028-30  Apr 2015


quite a dark red colour. The nose gives some reduction, and goes almost towards Grenache with cooked plum. Light muskiness, floral, a sense of strawberry coulis, mocha and cocoa. There is a spice-pepper theme along the palate, which bears black fruits, the sign of a “dark” vintage; this is a spinal wine, with tannins pushing forward drily. It’s interesting, not a facile wine. The juice has thickness, and the tannins are butty. It is pretty much a rectangle in shape – it is serious, dark Côte-Rôtie that will live well. It will be good to cellar this – take your time with it. 12.5°. “It is starting to round out; it wasn’t possible to get into when it was young, unless you decanted it, and drank it with game. It is more rich, and has more structure than the 2014,” Patrick Jasmin. From 2019. 2030-32 July 2017 Previously Apr 2015 ****(*) (representative blend of different sites/casks) dark, sustained robe. The nose is marked by a an appealing darkness and persistence, gives a minor air of soaked black cherries, black berry and cassis present. A violet insertion is also beau, and this is a promising bouquet. The palate is fresh, has good dance and weight together; it picks up peppery, insistent tannins, but the brightness prevails. The tannins have a light floral note. This is going the right way – it has one foot in Burgundy, the other in Côte-Rôtie. There is a brilliant, airborne quality and a rocking authenticity here – it is STGT wine. Attractive, measured richness spreads across the finish, and it continues well there. From mid-2017. 2031-33  Apr 2015


red robe; this has a good, running bouquet, led by dark berry fruit with a light floral undernote – this is a clean and confident start. I like the mix of airborne qualities and fine depth. The palate gets off and goes well, bearing up tempo fruit of clarity, finesse and lively length. It even drinks well now! The tannins are fine, the style accomplished. This is an expressive, natural Côte-Rôtie. Licorice and a wee tar note appear on the finish. Well made, tasty wine. 37 hl/ha this year. “It is a vintage that pleases people,” Patrick Jasmin. 12.5°. Bottled Sept 2014. 2026-28  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2012 **** (casks) dark robe; oily, liqueur, skimming aroma that has a raw side. The palate gives a fluid red cherry fruiting, is textured, rather oily. It ends on a note of tar, not all parts together. Red meat droplets show before the finish, with notes of pine. Has good body; its fruit is a bit stretched, busy. Muscular wine, though it doesn’t show that obviously. From late 2015. 2025-26  Nov 2013  Previously Oct 2012 an early look: (from Verenay, 2 weeks old, tank) bright, purple tone; broad air, right across the glass, flowers in it. Good length, fresh enough exit, but is still working. “There is a lot malic acidity this year, it will be OK.” P Jasmin. (Côte Blonde, 18 days old, tank) attractive, purple, a touch of black in it. Harmonious aroma, the sense of the Blonde is round and copious, a bit of grilling. Good, full fruit, texture of sound content around it, is all well wrapped. Good length, spiced end. It drinks well. Its tannins are well within it. 17-18 years – this is a **** to ****(*) wine. (Le Baleyat, tank) full, dark robe; reductive, big brewed style air, glistening black berry fruit. Nice little tension in the attack, it ends on tart, drying notes. Rather nervous tension in this. 13-14 years.  50% 550-litre oak casks for the wine raising this year. Final wine will be 12.3°.  Oct 2012

2011 ()

the red robe is a bit deeper than the 2012. The nose exudes a sunny depth, black fruit jam, blackberry and loganberry, its depth assured. There is a smoky, gutsy backdrop. The palate is thickening as it evolves, has a mulled fruits quality, a wee note of sweet, compressed depth. This is sunny Côte-Rôtie. The finale is tasty, delivers pastille-like fruit. From 2017. 12.5°. “It was more on its fruit, but is now closing, and it’s time to put it to one side,” Patrick Jasmin. €32 at the cellars, €19.50 export. 2027-29  Apr 2015 Previously Oct 2012 ***(*) (new cask, Bercheries 1981, Mollard 1973, and press wine) *** hearty red robe; ; cordite, clear ring to the nose, has a good layer of red fruit. The palate mixes honey, red cherry fruit, has expressive length helping it along. Oak marks the end. 13 years (550-litre cask, Truchet 1998, La Roche (early 2000s) ***(*) bright, full red; light touch red fruits air, with quiet gusto – appealing nose. The palate has a confident style, depth, with good, decisive cut, good fruit clarity. “These sites are less exposed, so I favour fruit on this,” P.Jasmin. 12-14 years (Moutonnes 1996-97, Côte Blonde 1966, Baudin 1978, 1993) **** inviting, shiny red; supple, well-forward red fruit aroma which is deep, has oak smoke present. The palate holds good, well-knit content, gummy late tannins, and its red fruit resurfaces at the end. Very young. The fruit is clear-cut, has grip, and the finish is oaked. This has matter, with the oak needing to absorb. “Its colour was less, and it was more supple, tender – now it is going in the right direction,” P.Jasmin. 15-17 years. OVERALL ***(*) a slow developing year, which will take on extra weight as it evolves, reminding me to some extent of 2007, which also had a quiet start. The wine will be pure and aromatic. To 2026-27, say  Oct 2012


the 2 bottlings tasted – I prefer the more recent one, Sept 2012 bottling: **** full red; brewed, rather smoky air in a dense, wide shouldered wine – this has more excitement and mystery than the May 2012 bottling – darker fruit airs, even dates are here. The palate is brewed, less pristine than the May version, a bit more fundamental and earthy. The red fruit resembles Pinot, and the finish is solid. This is intresrting, more rhodanien than the 1st bottling; the aftertaste takes up spice and pepper. From 2017. 2030-32  Oct 2012  May 2012 bottling: ***(*) lustrous, bonny red; smoky bacon, sizzled pork air, with toasting, red fruits behind that, a touch of flowers. The palate has an elegant, streamlined debut, all on a rather sultry run; this does not have some of the usual kick. Not to be drunk now in its shiny youth – it has discreet depth, a gradual build-up towards the finish. It is polite wine, more so than previous years. It can develop more southern notes such as herbs on the nose, for instance, and can break out of its surface youth if left alone. A bit mainstream for me. Many 2010s excite me, this less so. From 2016-17. 2028-30  Oct 2012

2009 ()

there is a nudge of change on the top of the robe that has a purple-red interior, is less dark than the 2010. Grilled, warm ripeness on the nose, to the extent of honey and black raisin, a sense of roast pork, brioche. The fruit aromas are not prominent for now. The palate is roasted, its fruit subdued, shows good promise on the second half where a kick of tasty red fruit, red jam or pastille emerges. The first half is guarded. There is a near garrigue, herb influence on the finish, an ash side, while its fresh end works well – the sign-off is interesting. Decant this. From 2016. “It showed more fruit six months ago. I find it has entered in a place where it is starting to change, a bit like old wine – it is best to put it away for four or five years now,” Patrick Jasmin. 12.5°. 2031-33 Oct 2012  Previously Nov 2010 ***(*) (casks) dark, thorough robe. Sturdy bouquet – oak, raisin and prune all there, grilled airs and beef stock. Not an airy vintage at all, is grounded. The palate is solid, feet on the ground, confirms the nose. Has a lining of tannin enhanced by its oak and the reticence of the northern sector. It ends firmly, on a compact note. From mid-2013 for more distinguishing features. Potential to deliver well around 2016 or so. 2022-24 Nov 2010

2008 ()

mild red, wee black in it. Cherry air, with grounding, substance to help it, but is easily accessible, shows a light air of soaked cherries. The palate possesses fine qualities, and this bears a strong Pinot Noir connection, both from the farmyard instinct on the nose, and the fine fruit on the palate. The black fruit has a late graininess in it, and the finale is juicy and very pure. Can be drunk solo, or accompanied by very clear flavours, no sauces. There is a gradual gain in tannin, the finish is spiced, this is an honest wine. 12.5°, like the old days. 2019-20 Aug 2011 Previously Dec 2008 *** (sample from 3 580-litre casks, sugars fermented through, malo not completed) steady red colour; early fragrance on the nose, mild red fruits. The palate holds red fruit that starts clearly; there is matter here, even though it is a little green on the end. The fruit is OK, the acidity evident, but gradual fusion can occur. This needs time, obviously. Dec 2008 “Now is the moment to be vigilant with 2008 – you must rack and apply S02 straight away after the malo, and probably apply more S02 than usual – people who aren`t careful will suffer,” Patrick Jasmin. Dec 2008


(taken from 6 casks of 228 & 580-litres, the wine has been assembled and has had 2 rackings so far) full red; the nose is led by black fruits, reduction is in the air here, and there are floral airs as well. The palate fruit is clear, if reductive for the moment, and runs steadily. This is more robust than the 2006, has a “darker” core pre-bottling – 2006 is more charming. Plenty of content in this. A wine of three-quarter depth, one that can run on, since it has gras within, nothing flash about it. The finish is reserved. Plenty here for the future, it is pretty, and its length is good. From mid-2012. 2021-23 Dec 2008


stable red robe; mild strawberry fruit in the bouquet – this has fragrant potential, runs on its own terms, nothing bold or brassy. The palate has restricted sides, with tannin on both sides; this has the upright shape of the vintage, and is closing up now – means it is stiff today. The length is well-set – this will be more fine and open than 2005. It is a slow-burn, not obvious wine, its interior layered with red fruits. Fragrant aftertaste here. From 2011. 2018-19 Dec 2008

2005 ()

nicely complete red robe; smoky bacon, ground coffee beans variety in the nose – pepper, black stone fruits in layers; there is room for some mystery in it. Faithful Côte-Rôtie debut to the palate – floral with a “ching!” of freshness and graphite cut. Has a bracing fresh finale, lengthening without effort – indeed it is very long and sustained, and there is really good content all the way to the finishing line. Most satisfying, we are now just tapping into its qualities. A long-term prospect here; decant it, wait until late 2013 or 2014. 2028-31 July 2011


robe is quite light. Spritely bouquet, black fruits with a pepper topping. Mid-weight palate, overall is rather edgy. It shows some richness at the end - regains some composure there. Wait with this - it may assemble itself around 2008. The start is burnt, so crop ripeness is an issue. Relative harmony say around 2008-2011. All is not lost here. April 2006


(cask) healthy robe; full, complete bouquet, violet/chocolate mix. Full palate, with cooked, not excessive flavours - red fruits. Broad, solid wine, lot of content. Well filled, fair end freshness. Esp 2008-09 on. 2019-21

2002 ()

very tight bouquet - leather, stewed onion, muddy effect, not crisp. Solid start but well knit together, flows nicely and continuously. Chunky, meaty wine, wide. Needs to be decanted, the chocolate effect is its one trick. Rather hard going after a glass or two, stops short on finish. To 2012-13. June 2006, Denmark Previously (cask) ** muddy, black fruit aroma; sweet, round fruit. Will be supple and drinkable in 2005, early on. Just lacks dimension. 2010-12


restrained floral/soft red jam bouquet; gentle, stewed black fruits, lots of finesse. Fruit is clean. Has a chunky side, decent tannins fan out at end. From 2005. 2011-13.

2000 ()

dark robe; brewed bouquet, violets present. Pretty attack, aromatic stewed fruit, elegant. Sound length. On the charm, has an earthiness on the finish. Esp 2005-06. 2010-13 March 2003, Ampuis, 50 cl bottle Previously Nov 2002 *** bouquet gains weight with air, has gentle, sleek black fruit; easy-textured, live hedge fruit, blackberries, gets more stylish with air. En finesse, quite confit. Esp from 2006. 2011-14


handsome, still mostly full red robe. The aroma is fine – “dark” fruit, tar at first. I suspect it will soften as it airs. It is very fine, gives small black berry flavours, but also a Côte-Rôtie floral, game angle with black truffle emerging after two hours that adds intrigue. Elder berries also come through with air. There is game mixed in the raspberry on the palate, which is centred around fine-tuned berry fruit. This has southern depth, but it stylish in a Burgundian way. Good length, a wine with still plenty of running, but overall not far off the summit. Best now to 2013, but can truck on towards 2018. 12.5°. Feb 2010 Previously June 2007 ***** good, rich robe that beckons the drinker and offers promise. Has an intense aroma that is led by blackberry with spice outcrops, still a little tannin the air, as well as a smoky tang. The palate is splendid, with a rotund and rich start, and plenty of youthful vigour still, even to the point of being closed late on. The fullest wine from the Jasmin family in recent years. Tannins are evident on the finish – a nice crunchy moment. Is a going wine, one with movement in it, ends on some tar as well. Very good, authentic, has the size of this unusually big vintage at Côte-Rôtie. 2018-21 June 2007 Previously ***** warm strawberry aromas, balanced, potential complexity; chocolate/prune style flavour, lot of warmth. Plenty of ripeness, touch burnt, leathery. Rich, full, heated finish. Top-notch. 2017-21

1998 ()

light spiced jam, liquorice aromas, meaty side; plump start, then restrains, discreet tannic edging and length. Some raspberry fruit, quite upright but will be expressive. Bit of tar. 2011-14 Previously March 2003, Ampuis ***(*) hint of terroir, quite cooked fruits, also violets; nice, quite lithe flavour, composed of garden fruit, red berries and soft spice, is smoky, too. Quietly coming along. Pretty aftertaste, tasty finish. 2012-14 March 2003, Ampuis

1997 ()

floral, violet jam touches, oily cassis on nose; clear lovely sappy fruits, good grip. Charming and long. Touch end tannin. 2008-10

1996 ()

mild red robe. The bouquet has reached a varied stage, mixing evolution but still some good life: it hints at fungal, earthy, woodsy airs but also has a floral surround that is typical Côte-Rôtie. Mid-weight palate, a wine with its own sinew and nerve, but it lacks a little fruit towards the finish. It hangs around on the aftertaste, even with this slight airy feel. Nice to drink solo, actually , which is a surprise for an aged wine, but in keeping with the acidity and fresh nature of this vintage. Burgundian shape here, nothing too obvious. 2012-14 April 2007, New York Previously *** pretty cooked fruits aroma, light pepper/fungal side; baked fruits, air brings dried black fruit skins, mineral effect. Stewed/spiced stone fruit. With age, still rather taut. 2006-09


dark red. Has a dusty, very vintage 1995 air with menthol and vegetal airs, a close-knit tobacco-smokiness, dark red fruit, strawberry – there is lots of dusty trail here. Likewise, the palate is tenacious, wired, very much on its tannins, with a cautious issue of red fruit juice. It picks up menthol on the finish, spearmint tang there. It is fine wine with an aromatic tendency within the firm outer casing. It will live well. Decanting recommended. 2032-35 Nov 2016 Previously March 2004 **** some strawberry, floral/fungal aroma, typical. Red fruit, getting mature after nine years, still has tannin at end. Length correct, can live. 2011-14 March 2004, Ampuis Previously March 2003 **** smoky bouquet, hint of red fruit, small sous-bois start, mineral also. Refined palate, cool texture, is just opening up. Red fruit mixed with light spice. Slow burn wine. 2013-15 March 2003, Ampuis


dark fruits, game aspects on nose; pleasant, not especially big wine; dark, wooded fruit, underlying dryness, then supple finish, pretty fruit there. 2005-08


game, fungal aromas, damp black earth that can be typical of aged Côte-Rôtie, floral edges. Almost a Burgundy of yore on palate, with a striking earthiness that emerges with air. Helped by the magnum to keep going. 2006-07 April 2003, London


mature, brick toned robe. Grain in the aroma - nice depth, but shows marked advance. Coffee, cocoa stage with a little local florality. Tickle of red stone fruit, flavours turns towards fungal at the end. Still has fair structure, but is on the way down. Flattens up at the finish. Shape is narrowing. 2008-09. Jan 2006, Hong Kong


light ruby evolution on the robe, still has a stable red heart. Spice, pepper and rose show on the nose, an interesting mixed aroma here, cinnamon – indeed there is great variety, with Indian tea, tobacco and sandalwood in the bouquet. The palate is spiced, peppery, also with rose-hip that leads to a sweet, date-like ending. It has a tobacco, fruit cake ending. There are floral notes on the finish, which lasts nicely. It drinks well now. Air amplifies it, but takes out some of its nuances. 2018-20  Oct 2012


ah, the last of the 6 magnums bottled for me by hand by Georges Jasmin in 1973. He also bottled 6 magnums for Tim Johnston, who is coming to dinner tonight and who, as usual, rocketed through his 6 magnums. Wax around the top, servir chambré written on the neck label, and the level extremely good, given the cork had shifted out by about half an inch. The robe is a pale red, traditional Tavel-like, tawny and garnet present, is clear as a dye. The bouquet is a beauty – roses, fine red fruit airs, very pure, comes with a little marzipan. The biggest impression is its florality, the aroma of a rose garden, pronounced purity. Redcurrant fruit is foremost, and after 50 minutes, spice and cloves. The palate starts brightly, is soft and caressing, has fine redcurrant and quince flavouring. I would term it nicely delicate, not fragile, and the red fruits are just that – extremely delicate. It has a lovely poise, shines a sunbeam of precise delight. I note the absence of spices and the emphasis on fruit. Has a fine, fine, neat finale, similar to petals falling on to your palate. A triumph, and a bearer of joy. Can live on, but it has accompanied me for 40 good years of my life, and now is its time. Adieu, mon ami. Dec 2011