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The Wines

100% Syrah, 80% northern sector schist from 50-55% Rozier, 15% Côte Rozier, 15% Les Rochains, 20-25% southern sector loose granite from Tupin, Coteaux de Semons, Syrah ranges from mid-late 1990s to late 1970s, vinified plot by plot, destemmed, 3-4 day pre-fermentation crop cooling at 10°-15°C, 18-22 day vinification, a few cap punchings at the start, many pumping overs, aged 10-15% new, 85-90% 1-2-3-4-5 year old 400-litre oak casks 18 months (until mid-2000s was 30% new, 70% 1-year 228-litre oak casks), egg white fined, lightly filtered, named Colline de Couzou since 2009, 15-20-25,000 bottles


1) (the press wine from all their plots, 5-year 400-litre cask) *** dark red. Has a smoky, mulberry air, soaked red cherries or griottes. There’s a crunchy theme along the palate, with red stone fruits, plums and incisive tannins, cut from them. The oak’s not yet inside it. This is raw, low on charm, a bit nondescript, but can evolve. 14 years 2) (Coteaux de Semons, granite soils, used 400-litre cask) **** dark red robe. Rows of blackberry fruits and lozenges line up on the nose, a nice inkiness, definite density. The palate is attractive right away, holds really pleasing juice that is aromatic, carries real good definition. The finish brings in violets, turns towards blue fruits, has a gentle roundness. This is promising, is very Semons, very true to its place with a silken elegance. 18 years 3) (Rozier, schist, used 400-litre cask) **** this is a touch ahead of the Semons: dark red. Raspberry liqueur, big coulis aroma, smoky bacon, flowers and violets in a neat central air. The palate possesses fluid density, solar touches; it’s ample, but keeps moving, lengthens with some fat richness, a lip smack of the deep South. The tannins have some scale, dimension. The length is good, juice a go-go here. This will make a very good marriage with Coteaux de Semons. 22 years 4) (the Rozier sector, used 400-litre cask) ****(*) shiny, bold dark red robe. Indian ink, buoyant raspberry aroma, licorice and some roasting on the nose. The palate is very jaunty, a good combo of stylish gras and fresh currents through it; it goes well long, with freshness central to its quality. Zappy raspberry here, lots of wine in the glass, complexity also. It shows good verve on the close. 21-24 years. When blended and settled, this will live until 2035-38 I’d say. March 2018

2016 ()

½ bottle, bottled ten days ago: sober dark red. There is a good stream, a funnel of black, smoky fruit off the nose, with a mineral backdrop, rocks and also black olives, smoked bacon. The palate has steel, right away, with decent weight, content. It holds dark fruits. It’s on its dark, smoky tannins late on. This is raw, with a sound make-up, is a wee bit functional. It has late verve. It could do with amplifying. Allow until mid-2020. “It’s on fruit with quite fine tannins,” Christophe Bonnefond. 2029-31 Mar 2018


some plots to receive an idea: 1) (Semons, 1990s Syrah, 5 year 400-litre cask) **** very dark robe. The nose lies in wait, has a gentle scenting over soaked raspberries, blackberry. There is a good, close link between nose and palate. It bears soft, rounded fruit with some peppered tannins well within. It rolls around well, broadly. The balance is pretty good. Soft wine. 18 years 2) (Rozier/Côte Rozier 5-year 400-litre cask) ****(*) intense robe, black tints. The nose has a chocolate density, all from the grapes, not the oak. There is an utter depth of black cherry. The palate is broad, gives a steady flow, holds clear and stylish content. It is very easy to appreciate its fullness. The length is good, the aftertaste on light grain, deep raspberry. 22 years. 3) (Côte Rozier, Rozier 1980s Syrah, with Les Rochains, mid-2000s Syrah, new 400-litre cask) **** dark robe. Smoke, nutshells aroma with oak just above it, a dense couch of dark berry fruit, and a note of the south via black olives. The palate is savoury, coated but mobile. Black fruits come with supple, ripe tannins. It ends on a little oak, is broad and well sustained. 23 years. 4) (the press wine, 5-year 400-litre oak cask) ***(*) very dark. Smoky, ripe, raisiny and darkly fruited aromas. There is a level distribution of black fruits. This doesn’t have the class of the previous wine, and its tannins is more obvious, rugged. It finishes on graininess, away from its fruit. This will be 10% to 15% of the final wine. 20 years. OVERALL certainly ****, perhaps ****(*) plenty of wine in the glass, a full and free depth, with tannins that will require patience until around 2020 or so. 2037-39 GB/HK £310 12 b i/b Goedhuis +44(0)207 793 7900 +852 2801 5999 sales@goeduis.com hksales@goedhuis.com www.goedhuis.com  April 2016

2014 ()

½ bottle, bottled six weeks ago: dark plum robe. Has a clear, springy nose with airs of supple black fruits, a hover of flowers. It has cool tones, a dash of lead pencil, licorice. The attack is nicely broad, also lucid and clear: the fruit doesn’t go all the way as yet, is behind the nose today. The fruit resembles blueberry. This is certainly Nordic in style; attractive juice emerges on the finish, and it can expand over time. Toffee and raspberry show on the aftertaste. “We bottled the 2014s earlier than usual, a few weeks – the wines are not about power, are en finesse, elegance, are rather gourmand,” Christophe Bonnefond. It was a little chaptalised. 12.7°. €32. From mid-2017.  2026-28  April 2016


(casks) shiny, handsome dark robe. Crisp black cherry fruit aroma, oak present; the nose has a steady depth, and outlook. The attack is clean, modern, a little hands-off in style, races along at some pace. A well organised, competent wine that could have a little more soul. It ends with some gras and therefore roundness. The content drifts a touch on the sign-off. From mid-2016. 2025-27 Jan 2015


(cask) dark red, some black and purple in the robe. Cherry, liqueur black berry and mulberry fruit aroma with a strong oak influence, a grilled air, on top. This is very much in a raw state; there is a seared angle in its washy, dark berry fruit. There is no real finesse in its make-up, is a series of parts. Acidity hovers in the late stages. Needs 2 to 3 years to fuse: can get there, I believe. From mid-2016. 2023-25 Nov 2013

2011 ()

good dark robe, red foremost. The nose is reserved, has an aroma of liqueur or jam black fruit such as cassis, and the depth of beef stock, cocoa, offset by a light touch floral note – it is still very young. The palate starts put upright, but wants to bend – it is upright only because it is young. It becomes more supple from the mid-point to near the finish. It has the juice of black fruit to offer more to come. It ends on smoky tar for now. A modern Côte-Rôtie, wham! From spring 2015. “It has a handsome structure, you can wait for this. The 2011s have gained a lot with their raising, and the tannins have become absorbed,” Christophe Bonnefond. From spring 2015. 2024-26  13°. Bottled April 2013. Nov 2013  Previously Nov 2012 *** (cask) sound red robe; smoky, well filled nose, has good local feel, a red cherry fruit aroma heart, comes with a note of flint and licorice. The nose is also marked by oak and black raisin. The palate has a “steely” start, is upright, has running still to do. It ends clearly on a note of smoke, the fruit not carrying all the way. It lacks a sure depth for now. From mid-2014. 2023-24  Nov 2012


dark robe; grilled, wee roasted first air here – it breathes potential and has a wide panorama: there is blackberry, wee earthiness, ripe fruit, date. There is an undercurrent of sweetness and ripeness. The palate is drawn together, has a good heart; its juicy, running fruit is swish in its way. Its texture is interesting, unctuous. There is lots in it , plenty of “food on the plate”. It is more abundant and layered than the other vintages of this wine that I have known. From spring 2015. 13°. Bottled June 2013. 2029-31 Nov 2013

2009 ()

(300 litre, 2 year old oak from Rozier, malo completed) ***(*) purple-black, bright robe; ripe fruits aroma – blackberry, raisin. The palate is full – has good content and extends well. Has the balance and harmony of the year. Promising, 13 years. (300 litre, 1 year old oak from Rozier, Coteaux de Semons, malo completed) *** dark robe. Quite a live, fragrant nose, with quiet air of mulled fruits. Clear fruit on the palate, a good run of gourmand, balanced matter, but low acidity. Rounded, agreeable. 11 years. (300 litre, 2 year old oak from Rozier, malo completed) ***(*) has a knit, but sound bounty bouquet – it trails blackberry and licorice. It is a real schist babe this year – the fruit is well set, oak apparent, but there is an increase in zing late on. Feel of low acidity, pliant wine. Good length. 13-14 years. Overall: from 2012. Life of 13-14 years. Nov 2009


(300 litre, 2 year oak from Rozier) *(*) quite full robe; there is a quiet curve of black fruit in the aroma, a bit high tone, and a nutty, oaked air also. The palate has a grip of black fruit, a calm run with shadowy late moments; the fruit is a bit edgy, its tannins need 2-3 years. 12 years. (300 litre, 2 year old oak from Rozier, Coteaux de Semons) ** quite dark robe, black lines at the top. Has a broader nose than previous, sealed up black fruits here, the smell of brewing coffee. Spiced black fruit with a brief gentle moment before the oak grips it, and tannic acidity comes along. It widens OK at the end, is moving in the right direction. 14 years. (228 litre, 3 year old oak from Rozier) **(*) full, quite dark robe. The bouquet is tenderising – blackberry coulis, a wee svaouty air to it. The palate is growing in richness – it is a bit earthy and indistinct for now, but has the matter to run along and make it. The final quarter is a wee bit stiff. This has a definite role to play, right in the middle of the assembled wine. 13 years. “We may do less Côte Rozier and Rochains in 2008, and put some of that in this wine,” Christophe Bonnefond. Nov 2009


(1/2 bottle) steady dark red, a little black in the robe. There are game notions on the nose, and evolving black fruit aroma that is laced with licorice and coffee. The palate is rather robust and grounded, until some peppery liberation at the end. It is wide across the palate, has decent juice, but needs less oak, please. From 2011. 2020-22 “It is a bit closed now, and was a lot more open when we bottled it: 2007 is a year that needs time,” C.Bonnefond. Nov 2009

2005 ()

(casks) dark cherry colour; clear fruit on the nose, has a clean core with content all around, has olives and a southern French touch, is persistent. Wiry, direct wine now that needs time. The fruit is straight and modern, with good flow. Is oaked all the way through, but not excessively so. Nice life in this – is full, but has the ability to charm later on, since its balance is good. Esp 2009-10 on. 2019-21 Nov 2006

2004 ()

bright robe. Open, oily bouquet, good grain and a nice fundamental tone. Oily, bosky texture to palate, this has been extracted to fill the glass - is rather oaked and narrow from that influence. Needs time to break out of the oak. The core shows red/cherry fruit, and the interior is sound. Lasts well. Modern style. From 2008-09 on. 2015-18 April 2006


(casks) sappy, raspberry/oak bouquet, some charm. Suave cherry fruit, with a core of correct tannin. Length OK, oak work sound. From 2007. 2017-19


bouquet has life, potential, can soften. Clean berry fruit attack, straight, direct. No great character, needs its acidity to settle. Can roll on. From 2006. 2013-14 Last tasted April 2005


(cask) some brambly fruit, middling weight. Bit narrow.


robe is light at the top; musty, fungal bouquet, but its fruit has a scented trimming, violets. There is still a live thrust on the palate, which bears the upright shape of a fresh year. Some late tar from its oaking. This is rather angular now. 2013-14 Nov 2006, London Previously *** smoky, oaked/floral/berry aroma; open, fruited attack, rocks off the bat. Clear raspberry flavour, some tannin at end. From 2005/06. Decisive wine, fruit is very good. 2011-12


earthy aromas, dark black fruit/house polish; cassis with spice/vanilla topping on attack. Interesting length, gets truffly, the Pinot Noir farmyard touch. Nicely profound at end. 2009-11.