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The Wines

75% Muscat à petits grains, 25% Clairette blanche (Pontaix, later ripening) from W facing very poor white marl soils (gives Muscats of finesse) with black marl veins (gives powerful Muscats) at 450 metres on Les Chevaliers, 500 metres from the plot for the Divine Rosée, a plot selection wine, varieties fermented apart, destemmed, pressed, decantation at 5°C for a week, then racked, wild yeasts only, filtered at specific gravity of 1020, then varieties assembled, bottled, fermentation restarts in bottle, then after about 4 months stops due to lack of oxygen, mousse achieved in bottle, bottles emptied under carbonic gas, then filtered, re-bottled, naturally a demi-sec with 64 gm of residual sugar, 8° alcohol, “serve at a temperature of 7°-8°C, drink within two years of purchase”, first made with 2016 as the base, 6,665 b

NV (2018)

flinty yellow, fine robe with a gentle mousse. The bouquet has an appley, vanilla air with a note of freshly cut grapefruit, pear – it’s rounded and alert at the same time. The palate attacks very well, comes with fresh, fine content, spearmint in the late stages, good, steady grip on the close. Theis gives a lovely aperitif, is w.o.w. wine, the aperitif on wheels. There’s a flavour of Bramley apple, and good, dainty detail. This is fab, crystalline, like drinking fine French lace. 8°. Sept 2020

NV (2017) No Rating


NV (2016)

serene yellow robe, inviting. The nose is refined, has a notably neat air of pear-cooked apple, a note of white raisin, and mixed fruits such as apricot, lychee, passion fruit. It’s a harmonious start. The refinement continues on the palate, which is very pure, has a fine mousse, ends with joli gras. The end palate is the best of their range, and there’s fond, couch in the mid-palate. The finish is snug, gives a lovely caress. 8°. 64 gm residual sugar. 6,665 b. €10.70. Dec 2018