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The Wines

a mix of Syrah from 1920, late 1940s, mid-1950s, late 1960s, early 1990s, destemmed but not crushed, 2-3-4 week vinification, part vat emptying/refillings the 1st week, soft cap punching at the end, aged 3-8 year 600-litre oak casks 12 months, then concrete vat 12 months, unfined, filtered, wide bottle, 5-7,000 b

2015 No Rating

mostly a dark red robe; there are inky notes on the nose, a firm line of blackberry, meaty notes behind. The palate also has this meaty angle, cooked fruit, is seared, with demanding late tannins that are out of sync with the dark fruit and content. It doesn’t flow, indeed stops at the entry of the tannins and gives a dry thrust there. Doubts about this – it doesn’t tally with previous tastings. 13.5°. Dec 2019, with M Barret at Cornas, no second bottle in time Previously Feb 2019 **** dark red; the nose bears the copious style of 2015, blackberry, has a slightly stewed side, is at a crossroads moment now, is rather rich at its core. The palate is sturdy, filled, comes with layered, thick tannins that are munchy, a wee bit dry. This is solid, fleshy Cornas. Decant it. 13.5°. From late-2020. 2038-40 Feb 2019 Previously Nov 2016 ****(*) (concrete vat, after its 12 months in casks) quite a dark red. Beef, meaty, insistent aroma, a nose of rugged depth, raspberry and cooked plum. The palate gives direct red fruits, raspberry. It is tight-knit, with good drive in the tannins that add momentum and fresh length. This has pockets of the deep south in it. Its strength is tied in with granite reserve. Great tannins here. From 2020. 2033-36 Nov 2016 GB Justerini & Brooks £625 12 b in bond  www.justerinis.com/rhone2015

2014 ()

various parts tasted, bottling Sept 2016. 1) Guytoune at its high point, pure granite, east facing, used 500-litre oak cask **** dark, shiny robe. The nose gives a close-knit air of black fruit, has a nice and calm depth, also violet and licorice featuring. The attack is live – this has good density, with freshness attached. Blackberry and loganberry fruit lie at its heart. The tannins are firmly planted, and soften fully. It is complete on the finish. The aftertaste lasts well, has a fine mineral-floral show. From 2018, say. 15 years. 2) 1956, 1960s Syrah from Le Pré, granite with some clay, a ravine, used 500-litre oak cask ***** very dark; the nose is striking, really STGT, typical Cornas, gives an air of bold, upright black fruit, licorice also. This attacks on running dark fruit with real quality content; this is a very good ensemble. There are floral notes and very good salted moments, the wine long. Fresh, very beau wine. 17 years. 3) 1920 Syrah on Le Bois, the basis of Billes Noires, used 500-litre oak cask ****(*) dark robe, shiny. Has a kind, well-filled aroma, blackcurrants, berries, it is curvy and shapely, and persists very well. The palate starts freshly, has a dentelle-saline line through it, a touch of black olives, and soft gras. Wholesome wine with relaxed attributes, no rush. There is a good frame here, and it is very long. 18 years. OVERALL ****(*) bags of promise – length and lots of style, a really handsome wine coming up. 2031-33 GB £420 12 b in bond J&B www.justerinis.com Oct 2015

2013 ()

(ovoid concrete vat, bottling Dec 2015) steady red colour. The nose gives an attractive fragrance, strawberry jam, a coulis style to it, has tender qualities. This is direct, Burgundian wine as it stands; the red fruit is clear, precise, runs with freshness. This is a good ensemble, a harmonious, pedigree wine. It is “stop and think” time, one with hidden corners to investigate. Head and heart are involved through its precision and accuracy, is a refined wine. 2029-31  Oct 2015

2012 ()

(casks) medium depth red; there is a discreetly fat centre to the nose that is plump and plummy, has a light tannin infill: here comes bright granite Syrah. The palate lines up a fresh-sided mineral clarity around its berry fruit, delivers tannin with grip near the finish. The fruit is delivered attractively, and it extends freshly. Interesting, true, STGT wine. Its clarity is very appealing, its fluid fruit persistent, the length impressive. From 2016.  2028-29  Nov 2013

2010 ()

still a dark red robe. The nose is reduced, broad, has a coated strawberry aroma, jam-like, as well as inner strength, and a tang of pumice stone. The palate starts firmly, assembles good forces of red cherry stone fruit, firm tannins attached. This is manly, but not obvious or imposing. It has a good, cool thread from parched outcrops, picks up the heat of the soil more than the heat of the sky and its sun. “I didn’t do any cap punching, since I wanted a wine that wasn’t overdone or too hot. It was rustic, strong and stern, but is getting there now,” Matthieu Barret. 2030-32  Oct 2015

2009 ()

good full and bright red robe; has a nutty, just finished being raised nose that give s a lateral run of black fruit. The palate sets off on a purposeful, complete black fruited path, has cut in its tannins, does the job well. There is good fruit at its heart, has proper good gras and length, with smoked oak noted on the finish. Polished but pretty authentic wine. 13.5°. From spring 2014. 2027-28 Feb 2012


bright black and red, inviting robe. Black berry, licorice aroma, light air of roast pork, grilling, smoky bacon. The palate delivers bold black fruits, comes with a good, clear purpose. Runs on with steady richness, continues well. Tarry and mineral late moments. Is a fine wine. Reflects the improvement in the wines here recently. From spring 2011. Very expensive, though: €55. 13°. Bottled April 2009, so he has also cut 6 months off the raising, also probably needs some cash flow. 2018-19 Dec 2009

2006 ()

there is attractive evolution in its red robe, has legs visible. The nose has a spirit presence, a game undertone, cassis and black berry the fruits. It isn’t a poised start. The palate is masked by an oaked, veiled presence. Black fruit lies within, with licorice, but it doesn’t fully fuse as one, with oak outcrops still apart. The nose is more Cornas than the palate. Excess oak and excess extraction in its making here. 13°. 2024-25  Nov 2015 GB Justerini & Brooks £625 12 b i/b www.justerinis.com   Previously March 2009 *** (magnum) dark robe; olives or tapenade olives aroma accompanied by ripe black fruits that have oily notes, are smoky and lightly rounded. The palate leads with a black jam fruit flavour, and makes gentle progress through the palate. It ends softly, has decent length and a late flash of mineral. To 2015-16 March 2009