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The Wines

50% Grenache (1930s/1950s/2005), 25% Syrah (1974-2005), 25% Mourvèdre (1980s) from galet stone covered sandy soils at Roquemaure, night harvested, destemmed, 12-18 day vinification, fermented at 32°C only natural yeasts, pumping overs, 0-20% aged 2-3 year 228-litre casks 9 months, then vat raised a further 9 months, 80-100% concrete vat raised 18 months, unfined, filtered, low SO2 use, organic, biodynamic wine, “drink with game, meat in sauce”, 40,000-75,000 b

2018

mild red robe, a pale top. The bouquet is reserved, offers a hint of spice, cardoman, with a violet note and a little strawberry, jam-like fruit. It’s a fine, cautious opening. The palate reflects a cool summer with mineral in the lead on it, a tangy tone throughout, a suggestion of musky flowers, autumn leaves, copper. There is a little seasoned, spiced red fruit content, and while not very filled, it has integrity and variety in its nudges here and there. It’s not up to heavy or very strong flavoured dishes, so choose carefully. 13°. This has shot up to 75,000 b, which may reduce its depth. All concrete vat raised. 50% Gren, 25% Syr, 25% Mourv. €12.70 at the domaine. 2024-25 Oct 2020

2017 ()

shiny red colour; the nose is on scale, has a roasted, grilled nature, pork scratchings, rosemary in the glass, with a firm inlay of still subdued red fruit. The palate continues the sense of size, is a determined customer, giving a firm wave of red fruit flavour with some sparks of life along its path. It’s not quite top heavy, but will require patience to settle – from mid-late 2020, thus. It has a seared side that needs to calm. Leaving it will pay off. 13°. 50% Gren, 25% Syr, 25% Mourv. 2031-33 May 2019

2015

medium red robe. The nose is engaging, thanks to a vibrant aroma of cassis with some pedigree sweetness, and outcrops of raspberry. Also present are licorice and dried herbs, dusty garrigue notes. The palate is lithe, fuelled by a direct line of persistent dark cherry, mulberry fruit which lingers. There is iron in its tannins, while flanking its spine is good, pure juice with spicing. This is the naked wine I expect from Carabiniers, is a Thinker’s wine, not evident, and is all the better for that. It fans out enjoyably on the finish. 13.5°. 2021-22 May 2017

2011 ()

medium depth red colour. Baked-brioche style air, plus blackcurrant bid, grilling – this has an elemental side to it; hedgerow, smoked wood, cut grass notes are all mixed up. This is gutsy, a wine of yore: pine and resin are infused into its wild corsets. An unbridled, free running wine that builds into a tar-licorice finish with sustained depth. The flavour concentrates on blackberry and licorice, tar. It doesn’t play the safe option, has nearly red meat droplets at the end. A Vin Naturel style, off the leash, has a crushed nutshells, salty exit. From 2014. 13.5°. €9.80. 2018-19. People would comment on this wine were it served to them at a dinner. May 2013

2009 ()

attractive robe of rather deep red. Has a meaty, muscular bouquet – it is full-on, cellar-led, shows burnt/charcoal smoke, green oak in its black fruit. There are sour notes on the attack; the tar element is pronounced here, and it is like that notably all over the finish. The oak is assertive. There is rather fine fruit within, but the oak is putting-off, and makes its very dry. From spring 2013. 13.5°. to 2019.  July 2011

2008 ()

quite a dark red; stalky, green airs on the nose, caramel and stewed fruit. The palate is ready now – shows black fruit, prune, smoky touches, a little juice present. Not inspiring. Quiet length, dry finish. April 2010

2007

full black-red robe. The nose is harmonious – shows sweet tea, baked raisin tart, a mature rather than fresh style, Grenache plum fruit. The palate shows evolution, is fragile and smoothly textured, but the fruit stretches too much towards the end. I sense some Volatile Acidity, though some wouldn’t. It ends on drier notes, a bit rustic, and fruit is absent on the aftertaste. To 2014 maybe. Irregular wine. 13.5°. Dec 2009  Previously March 2009 ** red, purple and violet tints; open, nicely ample nose that has life and black jam qualities all together. The palate gives active black fruit with a fresh line through it, though the tannins at the end are a shade dry. It grips tightly on the finish. The bouquet and the attack are ahead of the finish. To 2012. March 2009

2006 ()

quite a dark robe; the bouquet is square-shaped – fresh, with menthol in the air – will benefit from time. There is low-key potential on the palate, its fruit is out of the usual international loop, has a good, active weave of flavour. It ends clearly, spicily. This has well-formed tannins, can run on. It is an STGT style of wine. From late 2009. 2015-16 June 2007

2005 ()

black robe, red tones in it; round, ripe and full nose – mulled raspberry, a little downhome meatiness. The palate leads with red fruit that grips early on – there is a thread of tannin all through it. It's a bit dry and oaky on the finish. Can move together from mid-2008. To 2012 June 2007